homage to our new yoga instructor

Alexsa, at Pinnacle, is so wonderful, that her class and a chocolate croissant from Batch bakery on Willy street totally rock my Sunday morning.

So, I had to make a new set of yoga threads, to go with the new teacher situation.  (Lu, we miss you wherever you are)

The first new garment was a racer back yoga top.  I used a copy of a Marika brand one, my fav yoga top of all times.  The fabric is from Marcy Tilton, fairly recently, so it might still be available (it's rayon and cotton and Lycra and I bought it in navy blue as well.)

My tshirt coverup is from the same fabric and is made with this S. Betzina tshirt pattern, that I love.   I made it a tad longer for all those down dog positions. . . 

namista

And, whomever said that Epic hasn't brought wonderful, new, multitalented people to Madison?  Eh!   

December rain. . .

What to do?   Make a raincoat, and don't forget the hat.

Used Marcy's V8934 pattern in a medium (I'd normally cut a Large), but added in the hips and down for fit assurance.  

Ordered a great SF designer's expreso brown pleated raincoat fabric from MarcyTilton.com.  The sewing was quick and easy.  Great instructions.  Used View A technique of bias binding for hem, as that's what's my other great ready to wear raincoats from SF did.  But, for the most part, made View B, without the lining.  Buttons were expensive but not good looking, so view b's hidden placket did the job.

Then, I decided I liked the results so much, I should add a hat.  Used Amy Butler's Blue sky hat pattern, cutting about 1 1/2 inches off the outer edge of the brim.  Marcy sent me another yard of the yummy expreso raincoat fabric fast, fast, fast ( guess she recognised fabric emergency in my voice.  HA)

The results deserve to go somewhere other than the mailbox, right?

Tutorial on knit buttonholes, using a Solvy sandwich

By popular request, I decided to post S. Betzina's method for preventing buttonhole stretch out on a knit jacket.

This knit jacket was very boring without buttons, but I was a bit intimidated by the task.  Found some great stone buttons at Gayfeather Fabrics, in Madison, WI that had dots ground into them.  The buttons are sitting on the jacket above, but it might be hard to see.

So, you put a bit of Solvy over the place you plan to buttonhole and underneath, making a Solvy sandwich.

Then, you make your buttonhole.

Then, gently tear away the Solvy.  

Don't worry if it doesn't all come off, as a steam iron over the buttonhole after you cut the slit will take care of leftover Solvy and any minor wobbly sides.

Wonderful buttonholes every time.  And, thanks to Gayfeathers for jazzing up my jacket.

52 degrees in Florida??

Yes, it finally got to be winter here.  How odd, as last year we had this weather in January.  I've already packed up several jackets to take back to Madison, as it's been too hot and sticky most of the winter for much other than a short sleeved tshirt.  Even Linen tunics are too hot until my bathing suit gets wet!

Nevertheless, jackets are one of my favorite things to sew.  I usually have lots of jacket weight pieces of fabric hoarded and waiting for a good jacket pattern.  Thank you so much, Marcy, for Vogue 8982.

I first made this in a bright blue polyester I ordered from Gorgeous Fabrics.  I hated the hand of the fabric when it arrived and it seemed way too thin for a jacket.  But, the pattern is sized for knits and the darts helped tame the cheesy look.  And, this fabric is perfect for travel!

Then came the dreaded buttonhole phase.  Fortunately, I've been watching Sandra Betzina and Ron Collins sewing videos.  In one, she emphasizes several times, that a Solvy sandwich (Solvy on the top and bottom of the buttonhole area) will tame most potential buttonhole disasters.  She was right, even for this largish (over 1") set of buttonholes.  And, Ron (I feel I know him virtually well enough to call him that) has an incredible Western Canada way of pronouncing "buttonholes".  These shows are some of the best tutorials I've ever seen BTW.  They are now filming and releasing episodes on each of Sandra's Today's Fit patterns, even the older ones.

This version of the jacket is in a cotton ponte from that orlando fabric store I blogged about in November.  I love the bright colors worked into the animal print and plan to wear this today.

There are separate pattern pieces in this pattern for wovens.  So, I just completed this version in a brown printed linen I found here last season at Jo Ann's.  This jacket gets packed, as I have a marvelous E. Fisher brown sundress just waiting for this fresh topper.  

Yes, Madison, it will be summer before too long!!!!

Early 'March, my favorite sewing time of the year

While it is not yet even early Spring where I live most of the year, I just love this time of year.  My birthday time, when the redbuds bloom where I grew up, in Southern Oklahoma.  Also, the time for the biggest sewing expo event of the year in Pewallup, WA.  I've only attended once, what a fabulous trip!!!

But, all the independent pattern companies and many of the Vogue pattern designers go all out with their new patterns right before the show begins.

This is Sewing Workshop's new Helix tshirt pattern.  I ordered some very fine Hugo Boss knit from them as well, as they said it was perfect for this design.  Another blog said a fabric was like sewing on jello.  Well, this wasn't quite that bad, but it wasn't much fun, either.

I do like the resulting shape which has a seam running around the body.  Will have to wait until I return to WI to wear it as Florida is pretty much a short sleeve cotton tshirt place this winter.

A very sweet blouse pattern. V1385

Since it's cloudy here in Florida today and I have a visitor induced cold (no sewing), I wanted to catch up a little with recent sewing projects.

I made this S. Betzina blouse pattern before I left Madison in January.  

The blouse is easy to make, if not to mark all those darts around the neck.  It's softly flattering.  And, now I remember why I bought this rayon from casual elegance, Lois Hinses fabric store online.

I made my second try of this pattern in similar rayon from Casual Elegance for my Florida closet.

Wore it today to the Palm Beach fine craft show and amidst all the wonderful wearable art, a buyer complemented me on it.  I told her a friend designed it for me.  Thank you, Sandra Betzina, for a very wearable pattern.

Style Arc Marni Ponti jacket

I haven't seen too many reviews on this jacket, and it does have a bit of a peplum (with deep pleats in the front waistline) But, I just trusted style arc's great style (and cut generously on the side seams.  The pattern was a dream to sew, and quite fast (its unlined).

The ponte is from Charlotte's Studio in Port Charlotte, Fl.  Even though it's fairly lightweight and polyester, I couldn't resist the color or the houndstooth pattern.  The ball button and elastic loop closure are from Gayfeather fabrics in Madison, WI.  (I thought my stash had every button known to man, but Gayfeather's has even better stuff!)

These pictures were taken on my body double (my eternal gratitude to Deb Holden for wrapping me in brown tape to make it) and it fits just like this on my body as well.  I like it and plan to liven up some black wardrobe basics soon

Coats suitable for a blizzard!

I found a beautiful piece of Marc Jacobs coating last winter at Gayfeather fabrics in Madison, Wi (where they are currently getting 6-8 inches of blizzard/snow- I know because the weather channel radar is impressive esp. in 70+ F in Florida).  I made a coat last year that got gifted, as the small amount of nylon and the structured design were not compatible to my Rowenta steam/box iron.  Still cleaning that puppy off this year.

Then, in April, I found these wonderful Eiffel Tower snaps at the most incredible button store in Paris, that I thought might work instead of trying to make bound buttonholes with that thread woven through fabric.

So, before I left Madison during the second Atlanta blizzard, I made this version of the coat with more of the same beautiful M. Jacobs black with blue thread wool (thanks to Gayfeather's generous birthday discount-at my age 1/2 my age in discount is substantial!!!)

I used a vogue pattern, 8937, that Marcy Tilton said she should have used in her winter coat saga last year.  HA 

I love the coat and plan to wear it in March when I return to the Polar blizzard called Wisconsin.  This shot I showed off the incredible Paris snaps, that don't really show on the finished coat.

Then, I picked out another Marc Jacobs coating I bought around the same timeframe from fabric mart. It's very heavy and two-sided.  I picked a vogue pattern, 8933, I now remember was a disaster the last time I tried it.  I allowed lots on the sides, but incredibly, the sleeves are also way too tight.  

Which brings me to this picture.   Fortunately, I still have plenty of fabric and lining to do a complete sleeve redo.  While sitting with friends at a Linda Lee seminar in Milwaukee (almost cancelled after a huge, similar blizzard) a couple of years ago, Linda held up said tool, and said "make this your friend. Sewing is as much about ripping as it is stitching". And I couldn't agree more.  I really don't even mind ripping during a great episode of Downton or Mad Men (it is coming back with new episodes, right?)

This shot shows finished coat with too tight sleeves. . . . I plan to finish this one too.

Oh yes, these Eiffel Tower "Paris" snaps I found at stone mountain and daughter in Berkeley last spring.  They will be added to the second coat above after the sleeves are done.

A plethora of tshirts. . .

Usually, I have only one tshirt pattern as my go-to style of the moment, so I feel privileged to have found three patterns that fit, are interesting, and I like wearing.

The first is Vogue 8962.  Thanks to the vogue patterns magazine and the Jilly be Jolly blog, I found this wonderful tshirt that's almost a tunic.

made it first in stripes and fell in love with it there.  But have subsequently made the View B with a plain grey/silver velour or stretch velvet and a rayon/lycra print and it looks great in both those versions, as well. Next project with this pattern is one of those giant chevron knit patterns.  Wish me luck.

Here's the back view:

The second tshirt pattern is one of S Betzina's today's fit patterns, Vogue 1363.  Not crazy about the neck facing, but used my normal band of 2 inches width and it worked great.  See my post on Port Charlotte s. Betzina seminar for a few pictorial examples.

The third pattern is a Katherine Tilton Butterick 5961.  This is view B with what is called a turtleneck collar in a marvelous Mood fabrics rayon/Lycra knit.  Has really odd armholes, but isn't uncomfortable to wear.

All of these tshirts are a bit longer than I used to use but uber flattering with longish sweaters or vests and even shorter sweaters with bracelet sleeves.  

My two former fav tshirt patterns worn out at this point, so it's nice to make something different.

January sub zero weather dictates drastic fleece sewing

It is in the - degrees F these days in Madison, WI.  We are not the worst in the country, but we are 

!?$&@ cold.

So, when I decided to enjoy? The month of January back home, I picked up this fleece fabric I bought earlier in the year at Gayfeather Fabrics.

I used Kwik sew pattern  K4015  and found the chenille trim at Gayfeathers as well.  It's so fun to have a local independent fabric store, not to mention the owner, Virginia, to brain storm with.

As we were discussing said chenille trim, my eyes were caught by these wonderful wire buttons displayed nearby.  

Virginia pointed out that there are two weights of hair scrunchies for button loops and that I should be sure and match the weight to the button wire.

 I am so please with the resulting sweater/jacket and wonderfully warm, as well.

My Sewing guru or muse . . .

Recently, I had the wonderful opportunity of driving through the "orange farms" (my local hairdresser informed me they were called "groves") to the opposite or the gulf side of Florida.  There is a neat Bernina dealer in Port Charlotte, Fl who was hosting my long time ( I've followed her since the 80s and described the first green pigskin jacket I fell in love with to Doris, at said trunk Show, who remarked, "I know exactly the jacket you are describing") friend and sewing guru, Sandra Betzina.

I originally had a neat three days there with appts for my berninas to be serviced and hotels reserved.  Weather around Christmas intervened and I cancelled my reservations to the two day Sit and Sew and the one day trunk show.

Later, I saw on Facebook there were a few trunk show vacancies (in the meantime, a whole other sit and sew booked up, before the trunk show), so I got up early and drove though the orange farms/groves.  As I walked in, the owner of the Bernina store announced a lady was trapped in Alaska so they had one cancellation for the sit and sew.  Kismet, or it was meant to be.  ( of course I had packed three sets of clothes, but, alas, only one pair of shoes plus my patten leather flip flops)

The first day of trunk show and techniques was awesome.  Wonderful examples of all Sandra's vogue Today's Fit patterns and my new BFF, Doris, beside me.  Drove Sandra from the only motel in town to dinner in Punta Gorda at a fabulous restaurant picked by two local Sandra fans who were fun to meet and great company for dinner.

The next day, the Bernina dealer assistants measured us and we stood on line for Sandra! who suggested what sizes we should put on for tshirts and one seam pants (she had brought all sizes made up in good quality knits)

She tirelessly critiqued us all and told us how to adjust our two Vogue patterns included in the course for our particular body shape, which ran the gamet of female bodies over 30, for sure.

We then cut out knit fabric provided by the dealer/fabric store and sewed our two custom fit garments.

Tshirt was the new one, vogue 1363, and one-seam pants were Vogue 1197.

Here's a shot of the finished tshirt.

And one-seamed pants both front and back views!!

Sandra kept us interested for the whole three days, by including interesting tutorials on construction and details.

Now I have two finished garments and lots of new port Charlotte  sewing friends.  A good time was had by all.

Fleece hats in Florida!

i haven't posted in a while due to our planned travel week in St. John, USVI and an unplanned two week trip back home to Wisconsin.  

I decided I needed a hat while there and had fun sewing it on my moms worn but stitch perfect Featherweight (purchased in 1943). Used Marcy's new vogue pattern and a double-sided polar fleece remnant from Canvasback.  (A boutique ready to wear manufacturer sadly defunct which had the most wonderful roll ends and remnant sales) 

The remnant already had embroidery on it, so I used a decorative thread that complemented around the top little knob.  

Pattern was super easy.  I made a large! as I have a big head.  It was a little too large, so I put a Petersham ribbon band around the hem inside and it pulled it in just enough to be a perfect fit. 

The hat made our return trip to Florida since it was so cold when we started out.  Didn't think I'd use it here, but overnight temperatures were near freezing, even in southern Florida, so who knows?

Anyway, I'll use the pattern again with old coat scraps I've saved when we return to WI.  Pretty nice muslin, if I do say so myself!